A nostalgic 3-day Pilbara road trip from Dampier to Newman

Some roads get into your bones. For one former Dampier local, the track to Millstream is more than just red dirt and scrub—it’s the start of decades-old memories.

In the early 70s, with a boot full of “essential supplies” and the company of good mates, weekends meant dusty drives through the remote Pilbara to camp beside the Fortescue River at Millstream. Fifty years later, two travellers hit the bitumen again—not in a battered Corolla, but still chasing the same feeling.

Day 1 – Dampier to Millstream

Driving time: 3h 30m | Distance: 220 km

The red dirt calls as you roll out of Dampier with the sun on your back and the Indian Ocean disappearing in the rear-view. The route heads south-east through Karratha—your last major service stop. Stock up on fuel, fresh supplies, and a few nostalgic favourites before following the Roebourne-Wittenoom Road into the heart of the Pilbara.

The drive is a feast of contrast: rugged escarpments, sweeping spinifex plains, and ghost gums that seem to stand guard over a landscape that’s both brutal and beautiful. With no need to rush, there’s time to stop and soak in the view at places like Python Pool—an oasis-like waterhole tucked beneath a towering rock face. It’s a short walk in, and well worth the detour.

By afternoon, you’ll reach Millstream Chichester National Park, where the day ends at Deep Reach Pool. Take a dip, set up camp, and let the stillness of the water and the silence of the country work their quiet magic. This place isn’t just scenic—it’s sacred, and the slower you go, the more it offers.

Where to stay:
Budget: Millstream Homestead Campground – Rustic, peaceful, and wonderfully remote.
Park Stay WA – $11 pp/night

Day 2 – Full day at Millstream

Driving time: Minimal | Distance: Local tracks

Today is about immersion—not in kilometres, but in country. With no need to break camp, take the full day to explore the surrounding park. Early risers might enjoy the Jirndawurrunha Trail, a loop walk through spinifex country and old station relics, with interpretive signs that highlight the natural and cultural history of the area.

Spend the midday hours relaxing under river red gums by Crossing Pool or walking the short Palm Pool Track, where the lush palms growing along the water’s edge seem almost out of place in this sunburnt land.

If the temperature climbs, Deep Reach Pool is never far. Swim, read, nap, or daydream—after all, this is exactly what those weekends in the 70s were about. Slow time. Good mates. Stories that stretch the truth just enough.

What to bring:
Plenty of drinking water
Meals (no shops nearby)
Swimming gear and good walking shoes
Respect for Country – this is Yindjibarndi land

Day 3 – Millstream to Newman

Driving time: 3h 45m | Distance: 260 km

After breakfast under the gums, it’s time to pack up and follow the red road inland. The route to Newman tracks through remote Pilbara country—past river crossings, through ancient ranges, and alongside railway lines that hint at the region’s mining pulse.

There’s no rush. Take time for photo stops or even just a cuppa by the side of the road—those moments are the essence of outback travel. As you head further east, the horizon widens, and the ochre earth deepens.

Newman welcomes with fuel, food, and a soft bed—but there’s more here than just a pit stop. Climb to Radio Hill Lookout for sunset or pop into the East Pilbara Arts Centre to admire stunning Indigenous artwork. It’s a fitting end to a journey that began in memory and finished in rediscovery.

Where to stay:
Budget: Seasons Hotel Newman – Reliable and central.
Seasons Newman – $159/night
Up-market: Oasis at Newman – A little more comfort, with on-site dining.
Oasis Newman – $220/night

In summary – Red dust and lasting memories

This isn’t just a road trip—for me it’s a reconnection with place, memory, and good times that I spent here in my early 20’s around a campfire under Pilbara stars. The roads might be better now, the tyres wider, the fridge a bit colder—but the spirit remains. Whether it’s your first time through this landscape or your fiftieth, it never fails to stir something deep.

Just don’t forget your “essential supplies.”

Practical information

  • Best time to visit: April to September (cooler, dry season)
  • Vehicle required: 2WD is fine in dry weather; check road conditions before departing
  • Road conditions: Mostly sealed; some gravel sections into Millstream
  • Fuel stops: Karratha, Fortescue Roadhouse, Newman
  • Mobile reception: Limited outside towns – bring offline navigation or paper maps
  • Cultural respect: Millstream is significant Yindjibarndi land – observe signage and tread lightly
  • What to pack: Ample drinking water, spare tyre, food, basic tools, sun protection, swimwear

More information