Five must-do adventures in the Kimberley

Over the last fifty years I’ve done a fair bit of travelling in outback Australia, but there’s something about the Kimberley that just grabs you by the shirt and doesn’t let go.

Maybe it’s the red dirt, the endless horizons, the waterfalls that appear out of nowhere, or just the feeling that you’ve stepped into a part of the world that time forgot. Whatever it is, the Kimberley region of Western Australia delivers in spades — and then some.

If you’re planning a trip and you want the highlights, here’s what I reckon are the five ultimate things to do in the Kimberley. Trust me — miss any of these, and you’ll kick yourself.

A 4WD is definitely going to be required for this trip

1. Drive the legendary Gibb River Road

Let’s start with the big one and one that is still on my personal ‘to-do-list’ — the Gibb River Road. It’s not just a drive; it’s a rite of passage. This old stock route stretches over 660 kilometres from Derby to Kununurra and cuts straight through the heart of the Kimberley. You’ll need a 4WD and a decent sense of adventure. It’s dusty, remote, and absolutely bloody magnificent.

Along the way, stop at Bell Gorge for a swim, take a detour to Windjana Gorge to spot freshwater crocs, and camp under the stars at Manning Gorge. It’s not a drive you rush — give yourself at least a week if you want to really enjoy it. And don’t forget to bring two spares. Tyres, that is.

Anyone for a refreshing swim? It could be croc feeding time.

2. Marvel at Mitchell Falls from above and below

I don’t use the word ‘epic’ lightly, but Mitchell Falls deserves it. Tucked away in the remote north-west of the Kimberley, it’s not the easiest place to get to — but that’s half the point. You can either hike in (multi-day trek) or do what I did and take a scenic flight from Kununurra or Drysdale River Station.

From the air, Mitchell Falls looks like a giant natural staircase tumbling through ancient rock. On foot, it’s even better. There’s something primal about the roar of that water in such an isolated spot. You’ll need a permit, some stamina, and good boots — but you’ll come back with stories you’ll be telling for years.

The Horizontal Falls have to be experienced to be believed

3. Feel the roar of the Horizontal Falls

David Attenborough once called the Horizontal Falls “one of the greatest natural wonders of the world.” He wasn’t wrong. This phenomenon happens when tidal currents force their way through two narrow gorges in Talbot Bay, creating horizontal waterfalls that surge with ridiculous power.

The best way to see them? By seaplane from Broome or Derby, followed by a high-speed boat ride that’ll have you grinning like an idiot. It’s not cheap, but it’s one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences that’s worth every cent. Honestly, it’s like the ocean decided to throw a tantrum — and you’re right in the middle of it.

The Bungle Bungles at dusk

4. Explore the otherworldly Bungle Bungles

You’ve probably seen photos of the Bungle Bungles — those weird beehive-shaped domes rising out of the spinifex in Purnululu National Park. But nothing prepares you for seeing them up close. The adventurous can fly in from Kununurra and tackle the Cathedral Gorge walk, which is highly recommended.

In the evening, the colours change with the going down of the sun, from deep orange to soft pinks and purples. It feels a bit like walking on another planet. Be aware though that the park is only open during the dry season, and the access road is rough as guts, so again — 4WD only. But mate, it’s worth it.

Time to relax after a day of living life.

5. Unwind and go bush at El Questro

After all the bouncing around, El Questro is a good place to recharge while still soaking in the Kimberley vibes. Set on a massive cattle station at the eastern end of the Gibb River Road, El Questro has something for everyone — from riverside camping to luxury stays in the homestead (if you’ve got a spare kidney to sell).

You can even take a dip in the thermal pools at Zebedee Springs for one of the most photogenic swims you’ll probably ever have, and then kick back with a beer watching the sunset over the Cockburn Ranges. It’s the kind of place that makes you want to stay a few extra days. And then a few more.

My verdict: Is it worth it? (Hell yes)

If you want a trip that punches you in the soul — in a good way — the Kimberley delivers. It’s wild, it’s real, and it’s not trying to be anything it’s not. You won’t find fancy cafés on every corner or mobile reception at every turn, but you will find waterfalls you can swim under, red dirt that clings to your boots, and stories that stick in your bones.

Take your time. Drive it if you can. Fly where you must. And don’t rush it — the Kimberley isn’t a place to tick off a bucket list. It’s a place to feel.

Practical information

  • Best time to visit: May to September (dry season)
  • Access: Broome or Kununurra are the main entry points (by air or road)
  • 4WD required? Yes, especially for Gibb River Road and Purnululu access
  • Permits: Required for Mitchell Falls and some campgrounds
  • Fuel & Supplies: Plan ahead, distances are vast and remote
  • Mobile coverage: Patchy to non-existent outside of towns
  • Safety: Be croc-wise, carry plenty of water, check road conditions