Pilbara peace and Python Pool:
A journey into WA’s heart

There’s something about the Pilbara that gets under my skin; it always has, ever since I worked here in the mid 70’s. Maybe it’s the emptiness, or the colour of the red dirt against a cobalt sky. Or maybe it’s just that when I’m out here, all the usual noise in my head shuts up for a bit.

When I rolled into Millstream-Chichester National Park, I wasn’t really expecting anything special. But I should’ve known better. This place isn’t just special — it’s sacred, vast, and absolutely breathtaking.

I came in from Karratha, and the drive alone was worth the trip (see A nostalgic 3-day Pilbara road trip from Dampier to Newman) — wide open spaces, spinifex plains, and iron-rich ranges rising out of nowhere. The road turns to gravel and gets a bit corrugated, but nothing my 2WD SUV couldn’t handle. As you get closer, the landscape starts changing. It’s still wild Pilbara country, but you start seeing more trees, more green. You’d think water was nearby — and you’d be right.

Python Pool and a very welcome dip

First stop was Python Pool, tucked into the Chichester Range. It’s a natural rock pool surrounded by sheer red cliffs and, on a hot day (and trust me, they’re all hot days out here), it’s pure magic. The water was surprisingly clear and cold. A few other people were about, but it was still quiet enough to hear the birds and the occasional rock cracking in the sun. You don’t get that sort of silence in the city.

Walking the landscape and meeting the Fortescue

From there I went for a short bushwalk around the area — nothing too strenuous, just enough to take in the country at a slower pace. Later, I headed down toward the Fortescue River, which is the lifeblood of Millstream. There’s something surreal about seeing that much water running through the outback. I sat under a shady tree with a sandwich and just watched the world go by. You could spend hours doing nothing here and it would still feel like time well spent.

Why this place feels different

What really struck me was how alive this place feels. It’s not just about scenic lookouts and swimming holes — though there’s plenty of that — it’s about the feeling of being somewhere ancient. This area is rich in Indigenous culture, with stories and meaning tied into every rock, every bend in the river. The Yindjibarndi people have called this land home for thousands of years, and you can feel that connection everywhere you go.

My verdict: Would I go back? (Bloody oath)

If you’re ever in Western Australia and you skip the Pilbara because it’s “just red dirt”, you’re cheating yourself.

Millstream-Chichester National Park is raw, beautiful, and full of surprises. It’s not overdeveloped or packed with tourists, which makes it even better. Just take plenty of water, a good hat, and your sense of wonder.