Agra to Varanasi by train
A night of authentic Indian rail travel

My overnight train adventure from Agra to Varanasi was filled with authentic experiences that made the journey memorable.

As someone who loves to experience a culture up close and personal, I found this experiencing a little daunting but also fascinating, especially as it connected two of India’s most significant spiritual destinations.

Getting ready for the journey

The Indian railways system might seem overwhelming at first, but proper preparation makes it a lot smoother.

My driver had already booked my ticket and had me at Agra station an hour early to make sure there was plenty of time to get settled. I had come armed with snacks and water. My backpack contained essentials for the sleeper train journey: a light jumper, earplugs, and basic toiletries.

The station itself was bustling with activity, and I watched as countless fellow travellers sat quietly on the platform waiting for their turn to board a train. Or possibly, just for it to arrive. There did seem to be an element of organisation in the visible chaos.

Finding my carriage proved straightforward enough thanks to the electronic displays and my local driver. The platform markers clearly indicated where each carriage would stop, and i was easily able to locate my carriage and then my sleeper cabin.

Life on board

I was sharing a four berth cabin with three other travellers, but being the first to board, I was able to select one of the lower vinyl seats converted into bunks. This lower berth offered a perfect location so that as needed, I could get up and use the onboard toilets if required. The carriage was air-conditioned which was going to make the ride a lot more comfortable..

Before long the train was on its way with me, for a short time, watching the lights of Agra flash by before gradually thinking and then gone completely. The sleeping arrangements in my compartment were basic but comfortable and with the gentle rocking of the carriage for company, I was soon asleep, the only occupant of the cabin.

I woke periodically during the night. Sometimes as the screech of brakes announced our arrival in a station, other times just because I tend to be a restless sleeper at the best of times. The occupancy of the cabin noticeably changed as the journey progressed. Sometimes there was another sleeping body in one or more of the bunks and other times, the disturbed bedding announced a prior occupant.

Throughout the journey, food sellers wandered the corridors, their sing-song calls becoming part of my journey’s soundtrack. I had my snacks but did buy a packaged sandwich for breakfast. I knew I was risking a stomach upset but put that aside so that I could satisfy my hunger.

Practical information

Luggage storage space existed under the bottom bunk, perfectly fitting my small suitcase and my daypack with passport and valuables I wore while I slept.

The train facilities included basic toilets at each end of the carriage, but bringing toilet paper and hand sanitiser proved essential. The washrooms seemed to be hosed out regularly and thankfully, never as bad as some country facilities back home.

My valuables were always on me and my suitcase was out of site and had a lock on it. If that was stolen then it was an inconvenience, but not catastrophic. Others had warned me not to take the presence of other passengers and regular checks by train staff to create a secure environment. If someone wanted to steal something, there was going to be ample opportunity. But I didn’t have to worry, nothing was taken.

Earlier travel and camping experience has taught me the value of being prepared. Along with regular travel items, I found having wet wipes, a a couple of water bottles, and portable charger particularly useful. The limited electrical outlets made power banks essential for keeping devices charged.

Throughout the night, the train made several stops at major stations. Each stop brought its own flurry of activity – vendors selling snacks through windows, passengers disembarking and boarding, and the occasional announcement crackling through ancient speakers. One thing that I had not considered and did concern me, was that very few of the station platforms had visible signage and I had no idea of where I was or even if I had slept through Varanasi.

Again, I had no need to worry. Asking other passenger and train staff kept me informed and I was also to find that major stops like Varanasi are announced so I would had to really try hard to miss it.

Summary

The overnight train from Agra to Varanasi offered more than just transportation – it provided an authentic glimpse into Indian rail travel.

While basic in amenities, the journey proved comfortable enough and created lasting memories. The experience highlighted how train travel in India isn’t merely about reaching a destination; it’s about embracing the journey itself, complete with its quirks and charms.